1 - why bother 2 - design considerations 3 - a neglected pond 4 - setting up a new pond 5 - plants 6 - algae & blanket weed 7 - fish 8 - food 9 - winter 10 - further suggestions

2a) - types of pond
   There are two most common types of domestic garden ponds- those with a pre-formed 'hard' moulded liner, and those lined with flexible butyl rubber. These days it really isn't worth building a cement lined pond because it can take a bit of effort to stop it leaking after it has set and shrunk, and needs months of filling and emptying to be certain the lime residues won't kill your fish.
   For overall safety of your fish, the pre-formed hard moulded types are more reliable as it's much more difficult to puncture and spring leaks. Yes they cost a bit more, but it's worth paying the extra. Both these types need to be placed in a thick layer of soft sand or thick old carpet inside their containment to ensure they can't be squashed against sharp stones etc when filled with water.

2b) - where to site a pond
   Fish ponds don't like to be in permanent full shade because the oxygenating plants cannot get enough light to do their necessary job. But it also isn't good to have too much sunlight because it tends to encourage algae to bloom and this can have a detrimental effect both on the health of the ecosystem and the appearance of the pond. Now, you can get around full sun by planting shrubs nearby or constructing trellises or pergolas to provide partial shade in summer when plants come into full leaf and when the pond needs most shading. You can also employ the use of shade-providing aquatic plants- however be aware that, in temperate latitudes, most ornamental (exotic) water lilies etc do not come into full leaf until after the main season for the start of algal bloom has started.

2c) - raised or sunken?
   Sunken ponds look more natural and are often cheaper to build, however they are also much more likely to get contaminated by muddy rainwater, dead leaves, drowned animals and the like. Raised ponds need a strong enough structure to support them and may not attract frogs etc, (if you want that,) unless there is a vegetated ramp etc or they are built into a sloping bank where only part of it is raised.
   There is one major advantage of raised or partially raised ponds and that is you don't have to be reliant on expensive submersible water pumps to circulate and filter water. If you use a hard liner, simple domestic plumbing can be used and an ordinary central heating pump bought at only a fifth of the price for equivalent power. They last just as long if installed in a suitable weather-proof housing and are much easier to get at for maintenance. (NOTES- 1: you cannot use a standard rotary water pump above water level because they need top pressure to work. 2: if you pierce the liner, do not do so right at the bottom in case your joint leaks; an intake to the pump, such as the fitting used to fill a lavatory cistern, should leave enough depth of water beneath it so that fish can survive after seal failure. 3: a grid or mesh filter on the water intake will stop baby fish, tadpoles etc from being sucked in and also protect the pump's internal rotor from damage by debris.)

2d) - moving or static?
   With very few exceptions, smaller ornamental fish ponds should have some sort of water movement, either natural from a stream, or more likely via an electric pump, (see above.) This is even more important if your pond gets a lot of sun, as this tends to encourage all sorts of bacterial, fungal and algal growth some of which is undesirable. Ponds less than about 100 gallons (500 litres) need water circulation more than those twice the size or greater, simply because small ponds are unlikely to support such a diverse ecosystem as would keep them naturally clean.
   Having a large volume of flow compared to the pond volume, such as (for a 1000 litre pond) from a central heating pump or decent-sized submersible pond pump has enormous benefit over the rather pathetic fountains often purchased by inexperienced home pond makers. If you can achieve a turnover of at least several complete water changes per day, the chances of keeping your water clean and free from blanket weed etc are many times greater than if it takes a week to circulate the whole pond.
   Don't forget you'll need to clean your pump occasionally, so a way of removing it without the water escaping is needed from the start. The rotor housing of most pumps can be dismantled and the input, output, chamber and rotor should all be thoroughly cleaned and any hard deposits carefully scraped off.

2e) - pond shape and depth.
   The actual shape of a pond doesn't matter much, except fish can escape from predators easier in a pond which is not too long and narrow. To avoid land animal and bird predators the pond also needs some depth. Ornamental ponds should not be too shallow for aquatic plants to grow well. Also ponds that are too shallow tend have high light levels and can warm up so much that algae growth is encouraged- see further below.

2f) - filtered or natural?
   A good idea with smaller fish ponds is to include some sort of filtering for the water. The filter can do a number of vital things - firstly it allows bacteria, which break down fish faeces and other contaminants, to work vastly more effectively than they could do in a static pond. Secondly if combined with a waterfall or similar, it allows potentially poisonous dissolved gases such as ammonia and carbon dioxide to escape into the air and additional oxygen to be absorbed when its level in the pond water is low.
   The size of filter needed depends on your pond conditions, including how many fish you expect to have and the flow rate of your circulation system. Large expensive filters are not usually necessary for small domestic ponds with just a dozen small fish, indeed you can often improvise a filter from a large plastic container and basic filter medium which by itself is not expensive. Don't forget that smaller filters need to be cleaned more often. If you find your filter clogging quickly, then the water is too contaminated with solid matter and the bottom layer of water needs to be syphoned or pumped out along with most of the muck. As long as you don't take out more than 20% of the total volume in any week, then clean (tap) water can be run in without harming fish, (assuming the temperature difference is not great and the water not over-chlorinated.)
   A new pond would do well to have pre-conditioned filters installed; these are laced with useful bacteria and can get your bio-filter off to a flying start. Alternatively, if you know someone who already has a successful pond filter running, you could ask them for a small piece of their filter material in exchange for a new piece and place this in with your new filter to 'seed it' and speed the process of seasoning the filter.

   10b) - If you suffer from cats or herons trying to get your fish, lay green synthetic netting, or string brightly coloured cotton thread over the pond when you're not there. You can support it on a simple bamboo framework if not too big, or hook it onto anchor points around the pond - being dark green, you'll hardly notice netting at a distance. With smaller ponds, you can use tall pampas flower stems stuck into the ground to make landing impossible for herons.

    10c) - Plant a wind-break or visual shelter around your pond, possibly with an opening out of sight of the neighbours, to make the pond area into your secret den.

    10d) - Buy or make yourself a comfortable outside chair or bench, not one of those cheap back-breakers, a really comfortable one. Put a small table or ledge somewhere nearby and sit there with your glass of wine, ice-cold beer, mineral water, or whatever else you fancy. Just forget the telly and the office and dream your own dreams.